Italia: Positano

Positano…the real beginning to our fake honeymoon.  But first, let me tell you how to get to Positano:

To get there the cheap way one must first take a train to Naples – easy peasy, took only an hour and a half because the train traveled so fast my ears were popping.  Then, you take the Circumvesuviana which is a fancy name for the local train which is more like a subway from the 1950’s that has not been cleaned since its first ride. At the end of the line (about an hour) take the Amalfi bus to Positano.  The stops don’t have names though, so pay close attention or, with panic in your voice, ask the person sitting next to you how the hell you get to Positano.  Then, follow all of the tourists off the bus at “the top of the hill” and grab the local bus to the hotel.  Or don’t, like me, and try to walk down hundreds of stairs with a 50 lb suitcase.  Arrive sweaty, dehydrated, and defeated to check in at your hotel.

The Accommodations

• Punta Regina: By complete contrast to the awful journey it took to get there, the hotel – and the rest of Positano – was an Italian paradise that made the rest of Italy look like a waste of time. The wonderful hotel staff at The Punta Regina, all of whom I knew by name and knew me by name, made this  four-star hotel feel like a seven-star escape.  The nicest (and largest) hotel and room of our trip, completely updated, exceptional staff, unbelievable views from the rooftop pool, and the best breakfast buffet I’ve ever had – I can’t say enough good things about it.

The Beaches

We were lucky enough to have a gorgeous pool (pictured above) on the hotel roof.  With a jaw-dropping view (I kept having to pinch myself) there really wasn’t much reason to leave when the sun is shining. However, for most hotels, the beach is a gorgeous way to bask in the sun.  There is a little bit of a cost to get on but that includes an umbrella and chairs, which are necessary for the rocky beach.  If you’re feeling broke and you can stand the rocks, you can access a small sectioned off part of the beach and sunbathe on your beach towel.

• Spiaggia Grande: the main beach, and largest in Positano, like its name.  This is also the hot spot for shopping, dinner, and nightlife.
• Spiaggia Fornillo: the smaller beach, a little further west. It’s a little quieter, and also has a path that connects (with stairs) to the Spiaggia Grande.

Both beaches require walking up and down lots of stairs, but that is the story for all of Positano.  Stairs, stairs, more stairs – that’s what it takes to build sidewalks into cliffs.  However, you’ll feel much better about eating all of the Caprese, bread, pizza, and pasta while wearing a bathing suit!

The Food

Obviously, being on the Mediterranean, Positano has a lot of fresh seafood.   But of course all of the Italian specialties were just as good here.

• Tre Sorelle: meaning “three sisters”, this beachfront restaurant was slightly more upscale but the quality of the food was worth the price.
• Da Vincenzo: near our hotel, this place has an excellent menu.  It’s a pretty busy place, but they bring you complimentary prosecco while you wait, looking out across the sea.
• Bruno: a little further east, past the beach, this was worth a walk to explore the other part of town. 

The Sites

Positano was one place where there weren’t as many tourist stops to see.  This was a relief after hitting all of the big cities. However, there were still some day trips to be had.

• Pompeii: everyone has to see Pompeii at some point. Since we were familiar with the bus and the local train, we hopped on and traveled to the ruins.  Entry is 10 Euro and we paid another 10 for a guided tour which is definitely worth it since there are no signs explaining what you are seeing, rock after rock.  We had planned to climb Mt. Vesuvius (my study abroad class had carved our names there 5 years ago) but thanks to a thunder storm we decided to take a rain check.
• Capri: this little island is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been and deserves a whole day.  We took a boat tour that visited all of the grottos, champagne by the arched rocks of Faraglioni,  then dropped us on the island for free time.  On the way home, a beer and quick swim in the Mediterranean.

 

Other easy stops from Positano are Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello, and Naples.

And the rest is history… back to Frankfurt for an 8 hour layover, then on to New York City.  I’ll miss you Italia. See you soon.